Napata

Napata is an ancient egyptian/Nubian city located near the Nile in southern part of the country, representing the southern limit of the Egyptian empire from around 1460 to 1100 B.C. Napata became the center of the Nubian Kingdom from around 800 B.C. and lasted for over 400 years. Nubia, referred to by the egyptians as Kush, represents the area south of the Egyptian empire in Africa, which was strongly influence by the Egyptians. Napata is located in the Fourth Cataract on the Gebel Barkal, a small mountain where the Egyptian and Nubians believe the god Amun resided.

Napata has several pyramids near it, the first and largest belonging to Taharqa. Taharqa became pharaoh at 690 B.C., succeeding his brother Shebitku, and ruled for twenty-six years. He is known for his work on the Temple of Amun at Karnak as well as work in Memphis and Thebes, building and rebuilding temples and shrines. During his rule, most of Egypt was taken over by the Assyrian King Assurbanipal, from which he fled to Napata where he finished his reign as the of the Kush.

After Taharqa, nineteen other kings and fifty-three queens were buried near Napata. The 25th dynasty was started and dominated by rulers from Kush. Amenirdis I, daughter of King Kashta (760-747 B.C.) began the 25th dynasty by reunifying Egypt. The pyraminds there are much smaller than infamous pyramids in the north and are known for their unusually steep slope. They were built of sandstone and, thus, are very weathered down.

The Kush followed the Egyptians by constructing their tombs as the traditional tumulus; circuliar structure, vertical slabs, filled with rubble and sand, and with a chapel on the east side. They also followed the Egyptian burial customs and traditions. Napatan Kings were mummified, placed in an anthropoid coffin, and accompanied by the canopic jars. Later kings built the pyraminds.

Nagada

Nagada was a city in pre-dynastic Upper Egypt, representing a major culture of that time. Nagada has three different spellings in certain texts including Nakada or Naqada, and is usually broken up into three separate cultures: Amratian (Nagada I, 4200 - 3700 BC), Gerzean A (Nagada II, 3700 - 3250 BC), and Gerzean B (Nagada III, 3250 - 3050 BC).

In 1894-1895, 28 kilometers northwest of Luxor, Flinders Petrie unearthed three cemeteries at Nagada that contained 2200 graves, the largest mortuary in pre-dynastic Egypt. Along with the human remains, Petrie found mudbricks, dog bones, and pottery. In later excavations, piles of mudbrick from collapsed walls were found. This suggests that Nagada was the precursor to the burial monuments constructed by later Egyptian civilizations. Petrie also excavated 3 brick-lined tombs and one undisturbed grave with a number of sumptuary grave goods in gold foil, and other decorative material. Along the sides of the tomb were some human bones and in the center was a pile of bones with six skulls.

During the Nagada II period, people buried several objects with the dead, characteristic of that period. These items included copper, ivory, bone and shell jewelry, and small model figurines of humans, oxen and boats, together with model weapons and food. These item were believed to have magical purposes and helped with ensure that the dead would have a content afterlife. The people who lived in Nagada were followers of the god Seth, the god who killed Osiris, the god of the dead. Nagada is considered to be the center for the followers of Seth.

Nabta Playa

Nabta Playa is an internally drained basin that served as an important ceremonial center for nomadic tribes during the early part of the Holocene epoch. Located 100 km west of Abu Simbel in southern Egypt, Nabta contains a number of standing and toppled megaliths. They include flat, tomb-like stone structures and a small stone circle that predates Stonehenge and other similar prehistoric sites by at least 1000 years.

The site was first discovered in 1974 by a group of scientists headed by Fred Wendorf, an Anthropology Professor from Southern Methodist University in Texas. The team had stopped for a break from their uncomfortable drive from the Libyan border to the Nile Valley when, as Wendorf stated, “we were standing there minding our own business, when we noticed potsherds and other artifacts." Throughout the 1970’s and 1980’s, Wendorf returned to Nabta several times. He determined that humans had occupied the Nabta area off and on for thousands of years, dating from as early as 11,000 years ago up until about 4,800 years ago. Although the area was occupied for more then 5,000 years, the majority of the stone structures and other artifacts originated between 7,000 and 6,500 years ago. It was considered by most to be the height of human occupation at Nabta.

Nabta became a habitable area because of a climatic change that occurred over North Africa around 12,000 years ago. This climatic change was caused by a northward shift of the summer monsoons. This shift brought enough rain to the Nabta region to enable it to sustain life for both humans and animals. Although it was a small amount of rain, usually around four to eight inches (10-15 cm) per year, it was enough to fill the playas with water for months at a time. Between 11,000 and 9,300 years ago, Nabta saw its first settlements. The people living at Nabta herded cattle, made ceramic vessels, and set up seasonal camps around the playa. These people regarded cattle in much the same way as modern peoples of West Africa regard them. The blood and milk of the cattle was more significant than the meat. The ceramics that were found from this period are minimal, but are considered to be some of the oldest identified in Africa.

Once fall came and the playa dried up, these people had to migrate to areas where more water was available, possibly to the Nile in the east or perhaps to areas further south. Larger settlements began to pop up shortly after 9,000 years ago. These people were able to dig wells that supplied them with enough water to live at Nabta year round. They survived on a number of wild plants and small animals like hares and gazelles. By around 8,100 years ago there is evidence for the domestication of larger animals including goats and sheep. This is also a time when the people of Nabta started to produce pottery locally.

Settlements became larger and more sophisticated. One settlement from this period contains 18 houses arranged in two, possibly three straight lines. It also contains numerous fire hearths and these amazing walk-in wells. This settlement also shows the establishment of an organized labor force. This settlement and all the other settlements at Nabta were abandoned for a couple of long stretches between 8,000 and 7,000 years ago when two major droughts occurred. These droughts caused the water table to be lowered to around the same level as it is today, causing Nabta to be hyper-arid and virtually lifeless for long periods of time.

The groups of people that returned to Nabta after the droughts exhibited substantial advancement toward a more complex society that expressed a greater degree of organization and control. This control and organization was probably centered around some ritual or religious belief system. This is the time period when most of the major structures were constructed at Nabta. They constructed five megalithic alignments that radiated from a cluster of stones that has been named E-96-1 Structure A. These megaliths were constructed out of quartzite sandstone that came from exposed sandstone that was at least a half -kilometer away. The stones were erected and embedded into the playa. With the help of GPS satellite technology, recent surveys by Wendorf and University of Colorado at Boulder’s Astronomy Professor J. McKim Malville have allowed them to map out the exact location of these stone alignments. These studies confirm that one of the alignments of the megaliths form an east-west line and another alignment forms a north-south line.

Although more research needs to be done, many scientists, including Malville, believe that the alignments had an astronomical significance. Three hundred meters north of these alignments is the stone calendar circle. Compared to Stonehenge, this circle is very small, measuring roughly 4 m in diameter. The calendar consists of a number of stones, the main ones being four pairs of larger ones. Each of these four pairs were set close together to form what Wendorf calls “gates.” Two of these pairs align to form a line very close to a true north-south line, and the other two pairs or gates align to form an east-west line. The east-west alignment is calculated to be where the sun would have risen and set from the summer solstice 6,500 years ago.

Fire hearths from around the circle date to around 6,800 years ago. Another 300 meters north of the calendar circle is a stone covered tumuli that contained the remains of cattle. One of the tumuli contained a cow that was fully articulated. This particular tumulus was dug into the ground surrounded by a clay frame. It had a roof made from the limbs of tamarisk. It was then covered with broken rocks that formed a mound eight meters in diameter and one meter high. Wood from the roof of the chamber has been dated to around 6,500 years ago. Other tumuli that were found in the area were more basic and consisted of unshaped stones that contained disarticulated cattle bones. They had no subsurface structure and were basically piles of bones covered with stones. These tumuli were dated to about 5,500 years ago.

Another major feature at Nabta is a group of thirty “complex structures.” These structures are located about a kilometer south of the cattle tumuli measuring 500 meters in length and 200 meters in width. The framework was constructed by using roughly shaped or unshaped stones that were set upright to form a structure that was oval in shape measuring 5 meters by 4 meters. Aside from a few minor details, all of the structures were basically the same. They all face slightly west of north and they all have one or two large stone slabs that lay horizontally in the center of the structure. What makes them unique is that they have been built over large mushroom-shaped tablerocks. The tablerocks were shaped by years and years of erosion and then covered by two to three and a half meters of playa clays and silts.

It is unclear as to how the Nabtians were able to locate these tablerocks. One theory is that they were located by accident when they were digging wells, but nobody knows for sure. The largest excavated structure reveals that a large pit was dug before the erection of the walls. The pit was about 6 m in diameter and 4 m deep. It was dug down to the tablerock. They shaped the rock to have three convex sides and one side that was worked to form a straight edge that face north. In the pit they placed another large shaped stone or sculpture that resembled a cow or some other large animal. The sculpture was placed upright with its axis facing north, the same way as the tablerock below it. The pit was backfilled with playa clay one meter thick in order to support the sculpture. Two smaller stones were also placed in the pit to help secure the sculpture even more. Once the sculpture was in place and the pit was completely backfilled, the surface stones were then erected and placed into position. Testing done on charcoal from around the structures indicates a date to 5,500 - 5,000 years ago. The actual function of the complex remains a mystery.

About 4,800 years ago there was another climatic change. The African monsoons shifted south to approximately the same area that they were prior to 12,000 years ago. The land became hyper-arid again and caused human habitation at Nabta to cease. The cattle worshipping people of Nabta had to migrate to a more livable area. But to where did these people migrate? Some people believe that the people of Nabta eventually made their way to the Nile Valley. Perhaps they were the people responsible for the rise of the Egyptian Empire. This theory is based on the prominence of cattle in the religious belief system of Pre-dynastic Egypt continuing into the Old Kingdom.

In ancient Egypt, cattle were deified and regarded as the earthly representative of the gods. Egyptian Pharaohs were said to represent two gods. Horus represented Upper Egypt and Seth represented Lower Egypt. Horus was the son of Hathor who was depicted as either a cow or a strong bull. Another Egyptian god that is represented by a bull is the god of rain, a very important entity to the people of Nabta, considering that life or death could have been determined by the amount of rain they received. Another point of interest is that pre-Egyptian societies did not place the same importance on cattle in either a social or religious capacity, indicating that outside influence must have played a part in the Old Kingdom belief system. This may have happened because the pastoralists from Nabta came to the Nile to conquer and take over the land from their farming neighbors. Perhaps they simply joined together with the farmers and their beliefs were blended with those of the farmers. No matter how you look at it, given the closeness of Nabta to the Nile, there had to have been interaction between them and ideas had to be exchanged to some degree.

Whether or not the people of Nabta had anything to do with the Egyptian civilization, it is still a site of great importance. It dates to a time when climatic and social changes were occurring. Complex societies or civilizations were starting to emerge not only in Africa, but throughout the world. Nabta helps to provide us with a better understanding of what life was like during this time in history.

Mersa Matruh

Mersa Matruh is a modern city that lies about 300 km west of Alexandria along the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. Mersa Matruh is said to have the most beautiful sand beaches in the world and contains many tourist attractions. However,as modern as this city appears, there are many ancient cites nearby. The city is built upon the ancient Roman town of Paraetonium, which was built to be a military fort at the delta of the Nile River. This ancient city is also known as Amunia and is said to have been visited by Alexander the Great, who built and laid out the city, on his way to pay tribute to the Egyptian God of Amun in order for him to become a Egyptian pharaoh.

Mersa Matruh proved to be in a key location during World War II due to the many British-German Battles fought here. There is more evidence to this at the site of Rommel's Cave which lies nearby. Rommel's cave is where the German Commander, Erwin Rommel, would make his retreat at the end of the day to draw up his military plans. Rommel's cave is now a museum containing Rommel's own armory donated by his son (http://www.middleeast.com/mersamatruh.htm).

Another popular site is Cleopatra's Bath, also known as Ain el-Hammam, a warm spring located about seven km from Mersa Matruh and lies on the path which leads to the temple of Amun. There is no evidence found that says Cleopatra herself actually bathed here, but more likely, the name is simply a romantic attachment used in many Egyptian names (http://www.touregypt.net/alex.htm).

About 24 km from Mersa Matruh, there is an ancient temple from the time of Ramsses II also known as Ramsses the Great. This temple dates back to 1200 BC and could possibly be the personal temple of the great pharaoh himself. However, there seems to be some debate about what this temple was actually used for.

There is also a second ancient site near Mersa Matruh that dates back to the Greco-Roman Period. This site, called Marina Ruins-Alamein, contains temples, tombs and nobles' houses and is considered to be the largest archaeological city second only to Alexandria (http://www.touregypt.net/mersamatrouh.htm). The original Roman name of this city was Leukasis, meaning the White Armour. There was also a temple found in this city thought to be a temple of the Egyptian goddess, Isis. This ancient city was discovered in 1985 (http://alexandriaegypt.com/tourism/komalshoqafa.htm).

Memphis

Memphis is the Greek version of one of the many names the Ancient Egyptians used to between Upper and Lower Egypt, on the Nile delta. Memphis was discovered by King Menes soon after the unification of Egypt (apx. 2575 BC) and became the first capital in history. The original name of the city was Inb-hd, which means “The White Walls” (a reference to the white walls that surrounded the city). Memphis, which means “The Beautiful Monument”, was originally used for the pyramid of Pepi I, but from the 18th Dynasty on, this name was extended to cover the entire region or city where this pyramid was built.

During the Old Kingdom, Memphis served as the nation’s capital and it held the king’s primary residence. After the end of the Old Kingdom, Memphis remained the political and administrative center of Lower and Middle Egypt. The importance of the city was also recognized by Theban kings of the 18th Dynasty. Thutmosis III and Amenhotep II often held residence at Memphis. Also, to be accepted as a king in Egypt, one needed to be crowned at Memphis.

Memphis was the principle place of the cult of the god Ptah, who is accepted as a creator-god in the region. There had been many temples built for him, his wife Sekhmet, and their son Nefertem. Now the temples lie in ruins, or have been demolished, destroyed and stripped of their riches and decorations. It was from one of those temples, Hut-Ka-Ptah, that the Greeks derived the name Aegyptos, hence the modern name Egypt.

Closely associated with the ancient city’s site are the necroplises of Memphis. These ancient cemeteries are where famous pyramids and the Great Sphinx are located. Memphis out-lived its importance at the end of the Ptolmaic Dynasty when the Arabs built the nearby city of Al Fustat just 15 miles north of the ancient capital. Today, Al Fustat is better known as Cairo.

One of the most important features of Memphis today is that it houses the largest alabaster statue of the world, the Sphinx that represents Amenophis II. Also, an 80 ton colossal statue of Ramesses II, made of crystallized limestone that once stood at the entrance to the temple of Ptah is in Memphis.