Napata

Napata is an ancient egyptian/Nubian city located near the Nile in southern part of the country, representing the southern limit of the Egyptian empire from around 1460 to 1100 B.C. Napata became the center of the Nubian Kingdom from around 800 B.C. and lasted for over 400 years. Nubia, referred to by the egyptians as Kush, represents the area south of the Egyptian empire in Africa, which was strongly influence by the Egyptians. Napata is located in the Fourth Cataract on the Gebel Barkal, a small mountain where the Egyptian and Nubians believe the god Amun resided.

Napata has several pyramids near it, the first and largest belonging to Taharqa. Taharqa became pharaoh at 690 B.C., succeeding his brother Shebitku, and ruled for twenty-six years. He is known for his work on the Temple of Amun at Karnak as well as work in Memphis and Thebes, building and rebuilding temples and shrines. During his rule, most of Egypt was taken over by the Assyrian King Assurbanipal, from which he fled to Napata where he finished his reign as the of the Kush.

After Taharqa, nineteen other kings and fifty-three queens were buried near Napata. The 25th dynasty was started and dominated by rulers from Kush. Amenirdis I, daughter of King Kashta (760-747 B.C.) began the 25th dynasty by reunifying Egypt. The pyraminds there are much smaller than infamous pyramids in the north and are known for their unusually steep slope. They were built of sandstone and, thus, are very weathered down.

The Kush followed the Egyptians by constructing their tombs as the traditional tumulus; circuliar structure, vertical slabs, filled with rubble and sand, and with a chapel on the east side. They also followed the Egyptian burial customs and traditions. Napatan Kings were mummified, placed in an anthropoid coffin, and accompanied by the canopic jars. Later kings built the pyraminds.

Nagada

Nagada was a city in pre-dynastic Upper Egypt, representing a major culture of that time. Nagada has three different spellings in certain texts including Nakada or Naqada, and is usually broken up into three separate cultures: Amratian (Nagada I, 4200 - 3700 BC), Gerzean A (Nagada II, 3700 - 3250 BC), and Gerzean B (Nagada III, 3250 - 3050 BC).

In 1894-1895, 28 kilometers northwest of Luxor, Flinders Petrie unearthed three cemeteries at Nagada that contained 2200 graves, the largest mortuary in pre-dynastic Egypt. Along with the human remains, Petrie found mudbricks, dog bones, and pottery. In later excavations, piles of mudbrick from collapsed walls were found. This suggests that Nagada was the precursor to the burial monuments constructed by later Egyptian civilizations. Petrie also excavated 3 brick-lined tombs and one undisturbed grave with a number of sumptuary grave goods in gold foil, and other decorative material. Along the sides of the tomb were some human bones and in the center was a pile of bones with six skulls.

During the Nagada II period, people buried several objects with the dead, characteristic of that period. These items included copper, ivory, bone and shell jewelry, and small model figurines of humans, oxen and boats, together with model weapons and food. These item were believed to have magical purposes and helped with ensure that the dead would have a content afterlife. The people who lived in Nagada were followers of the god Seth, the god who killed Osiris, the god of the dead. Nagada is considered to be the center for the followers of Seth.

Nabta Playa

Nabta Playa is an internally drained basin that served as an important ceremonial center for nomadic tribes during the early part of the Holocene epoch. Located 100 km west of Abu Simbel in southern Egypt, Nabta contains a number of standing and toppled megaliths. They include flat, tomb-like stone structures and a small stone circle that predates Stonehenge and other similar prehistoric sites by at least 1000 years.

The site was first discovered in 1974 by a group of scientists headed by Fred Wendorf, an Anthropology Professor from Southern Methodist University in Texas. The team had stopped for a break from their uncomfortable drive from the Libyan border to the Nile Valley when, as Wendorf stated, “we were standing there minding our own business, when we noticed potsherds and other artifacts." Throughout the 1970’s and 1980’s, Wendorf returned to Nabta several times. He determined that humans had occupied the Nabta area off and on for thousands of years, dating from as early as 11,000 years ago up until about 4,800 years ago. Although the area was occupied for more then 5,000 years, the majority of the stone structures and other artifacts originated between 7,000 and 6,500 years ago. It was considered by most to be the height of human occupation at Nabta.

Nabta became a habitable area because of a climatic change that occurred over North Africa around 12,000 years ago. This climatic change was caused by a northward shift of the summer monsoons. This shift brought enough rain to the Nabta region to enable it to sustain life for both humans and animals. Although it was a small amount of rain, usually around four to eight inches (10-15 cm) per year, it was enough to fill the playas with water for months at a time. Between 11,000 and 9,300 years ago, Nabta saw its first settlements. The people living at Nabta herded cattle, made ceramic vessels, and set up seasonal camps around the playa. These people regarded cattle in much the same way as modern peoples of West Africa regard them. The blood and milk of the cattle was more significant than the meat. The ceramics that were found from this period are minimal, but are considered to be some of the oldest identified in Africa.

Once fall came and the playa dried up, these people had to migrate to areas where more water was available, possibly to the Nile in the east or perhaps to areas further south. Larger settlements began to pop up shortly after 9,000 years ago. These people were able to dig wells that supplied them with enough water to live at Nabta year round. They survived on a number of wild plants and small animals like hares and gazelles. By around 8,100 years ago there is evidence for the domestication of larger animals including goats and sheep. This is also a time when the people of Nabta started to produce pottery locally.

Settlements became larger and more sophisticated. One settlement from this period contains 18 houses arranged in two, possibly three straight lines. It also contains numerous fire hearths and these amazing walk-in wells. This settlement also shows the establishment of an organized labor force. This settlement and all the other settlements at Nabta were abandoned for a couple of long stretches between 8,000 and 7,000 years ago when two major droughts occurred. These droughts caused the water table to be lowered to around the same level as it is today, causing Nabta to be hyper-arid and virtually lifeless for long periods of time.

The groups of people that returned to Nabta after the droughts exhibited substantial advancement toward a more complex society that expressed a greater degree of organization and control. This control and organization was probably centered around some ritual or religious belief system. This is the time period when most of the major structures were constructed at Nabta. They constructed five megalithic alignments that radiated from a cluster of stones that has been named E-96-1 Structure A. These megaliths were constructed out of quartzite sandstone that came from exposed sandstone that was at least a half -kilometer away. The stones were erected and embedded into the playa. With the help of GPS satellite technology, recent surveys by Wendorf and University of Colorado at Boulder’s Astronomy Professor J. McKim Malville have allowed them to map out the exact location of these stone alignments. These studies confirm that one of the alignments of the megaliths form an east-west line and another alignment forms a north-south line.

Although more research needs to be done, many scientists, including Malville, believe that the alignments had an astronomical significance. Three hundred meters north of these alignments is the stone calendar circle. Compared to Stonehenge, this circle is very small, measuring roughly 4 m in diameter. The calendar consists of a number of stones, the main ones being four pairs of larger ones. Each of these four pairs were set close together to form what Wendorf calls “gates.” Two of these pairs align to form a line very close to a true north-south line, and the other two pairs or gates align to form an east-west line. The east-west alignment is calculated to be where the sun would have risen and set from the summer solstice 6,500 years ago.

Fire hearths from around the circle date to around 6,800 years ago. Another 300 meters north of the calendar circle is a stone covered tumuli that contained the remains of cattle. One of the tumuli contained a cow that was fully articulated. This particular tumulus was dug into the ground surrounded by a clay frame. It had a roof made from the limbs of tamarisk. It was then covered with broken rocks that formed a mound eight meters in diameter and one meter high. Wood from the roof of the chamber has been dated to around 6,500 years ago. Other tumuli that were found in the area were more basic and consisted of unshaped stones that contained disarticulated cattle bones. They had no subsurface structure and were basically piles of bones covered with stones. These tumuli were dated to about 5,500 years ago.

Another major feature at Nabta is a group of thirty “complex structures.” These structures are located about a kilometer south of the cattle tumuli measuring 500 meters in length and 200 meters in width. The framework was constructed by using roughly shaped or unshaped stones that were set upright to form a structure that was oval in shape measuring 5 meters by 4 meters. Aside from a few minor details, all of the structures were basically the same. They all face slightly west of north and they all have one or two large stone slabs that lay horizontally in the center of the structure. What makes them unique is that they have been built over large mushroom-shaped tablerocks. The tablerocks were shaped by years and years of erosion and then covered by two to three and a half meters of playa clays and silts.

It is unclear as to how the Nabtians were able to locate these tablerocks. One theory is that they were located by accident when they were digging wells, but nobody knows for sure. The largest excavated structure reveals that a large pit was dug before the erection of the walls. The pit was about 6 m in diameter and 4 m deep. It was dug down to the tablerock. They shaped the rock to have three convex sides and one side that was worked to form a straight edge that face north. In the pit they placed another large shaped stone or sculpture that resembled a cow or some other large animal. The sculpture was placed upright with its axis facing north, the same way as the tablerock below it. The pit was backfilled with playa clay one meter thick in order to support the sculpture. Two smaller stones were also placed in the pit to help secure the sculpture even more. Once the sculpture was in place and the pit was completely backfilled, the surface stones were then erected and placed into position. Testing done on charcoal from around the structures indicates a date to 5,500 - 5,000 years ago. The actual function of the complex remains a mystery.

About 4,800 years ago there was another climatic change. The African monsoons shifted south to approximately the same area that they were prior to 12,000 years ago. The land became hyper-arid again and caused human habitation at Nabta to cease. The cattle worshipping people of Nabta had to migrate to a more livable area. But to where did these people migrate? Some people believe that the people of Nabta eventually made their way to the Nile Valley. Perhaps they were the people responsible for the rise of the Egyptian Empire. This theory is based on the prominence of cattle in the religious belief system of Pre-dynastic Egypt continuing into the Old Kingdom.

In ancient Egypt, cattle were deified and regarded as the earthly representative of the gods. Egyptian Pharaohs were said to represent two gods. Horus represented Upper Egypt and Seth represented Lower Egypt. Horus was the son of Hathor who was depicted as either a cow or a strong bull. Another Egyptian god that is represented by a bull is the god of rain, a very important entity to the people of Nabta, considering that life or death could have been determined by the amount of rain they received. Another point of interest is that pre-Egyptian societies did not place the same importance on cattle in either a social or religious capacity, indicating that outside influence must have played a part in the Old Kingdom belief system. This may have happened because the pastoralists from Nabta came to the Nile to conquer and take over the land from their farming neighbors. Perhaps they simply joined together with the farmers and their beliefs were blended with those of the farmers. No matter how you look at it, given the closeness of Nabta to the Nile, there had to have been interaction between them and ideas had to be exchanged to some degree.

Whether or not the people of Nabta had anything to do with the Egyptian civilization, it is still a site of great importance. It dates to a time when climatic and social changes were occurring. Complex societies or civilizations were starting to emerge not only in Africa, but throughout the world. Nabta helps to provide us with a better understanding of what life was like during this time in history.

Mersa Matruh

Mersa Matruh is a modern city that lies about 300 km west of Alexandria along the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. Mersa Matruh is said to have the most beautiful sand beaches in the world and contains many tourist attractions. However,as modern as this city appears, there are many ancient cites nearby. The city is built upon the ancient Roman town of Paraetonium, which was built to be a military fort at the delta of the Nile River. This ancient city is also known as Amunia and is said to have been visited by Alexander the Great, who built and laid out the city, on his way to pay tribute to the Egyptian God of Amun in order for him to become a Egyptian pharaoh.

Mersa Matruh proved to be in a key location during World War II due to the many British-German Battles fought here. There is more evidence to this at the site of Rommel's Cave which lies nearby. Rommel's cave is where the German Commander, Erwin Rommel, would make his retreat at the end of the day to draw up his military plans. Rommel's cave is now a museum containing Rommel's own armory donated by his son (http://www.middleeast.com/mersamatruh.htm).

Another popular site is Cleopatra's Bath, also known as Ain el-Hammam, a warm spring located about seven km from Mersa Matruh and lies on the path which leads to the temple of Amun. There is no evidence found that says Cleopatra herself actually bathed here, but more likely, the name is simply a romantic attachment used in many Egyptian names (http://www.touregypt.net/alex.htm).

About 24 km from Mersa Matruh, there is an ancient temple from the time of Ramsses II also known as Ramsses the Great. This temple dates back to 1200 BC and could possibly be the personal temple of the great pharaoh himself. However, there seems to be some debate about what this temple was actually used for.

There is also a second ancient site near Mersa Matruh that dates back to the Greco-Roman Period. This site, called Marina Ruins-Alamein, contains temples, tombs and nobles' houses and is considered to be the largest archaeological city second only to Alexandria (http://www.touregypt.net/mersamatrouh.htm). The original Roman name of this city was Leukasis, meaning the White Armour. There was also a temple found in this city thought to be a temple of the Egyptian goddess, Isis. This ancient city was discovered in 1985 (http://alexandriaegypt.com/tourism/komalshoqafa.htm).

Memphis

Memphis is the Greek version of one of the many names the Ancient Egyptians used to between Upper and Lower Egypt, on the Nile delta. Memphis was discovered by King Menes soon after the unification of Egypt (apx. 2575 BC) and became the first capital in history. The original name of the city was Inb-hd, which means “The White Walls” (a reference to the white walls that surrounded the city). Memphis, which means “The Beautiful Monument”, was originally used for the pyramid of Pepi I, but from the 18th Dynasty on, this name was extended to cover the entire region or city where this pyramid was built.

During the Old Kingdom, Memphis served as the nation’s capital and it held the king’s primary residence. After the end of the Old Kingdom, Memphis remained the political and administrative center of Lower and Middle Egypt. The importance of the city was also recognized by Theban kings of the 18th Dynasty. Thutmosis III and Amenhotep II often held residence at Memphis. Also, to be accepted as a king in Egypt, one needed to be crowned at Memphis.

Memphis was the principle place of the cult of the god Ptah, who is accepted as a creator-god in the region. There had been many temples built for him, his wife Sekhmet, and their son Nefertem. Now the temples lie in ruins, or have been demolished, destroyed and stripped of their riches and decorations. It was from one of those temples, Hut-Ka-Ptah, that the Greeks derived the name Aegyptos, hence the modern name Egypt.

Closely associated with the ancient city’s site are the necroplises of Memphis. These ancient cemeteries are where famous pyramids and the Great Sphinx are located. Memphis out-lived its importance at the end of the Ptolmaic Dynasty when the Arabs built the nearby city of Al Fustat just 15 miles north of the ancient capital. Today, Al Fustat is better known as Cairo.

One of the most important features of Memphis today is that it houses the largest alabaster statue of the world, the Sphinx that represents Amenophis II. Also, an 80 ton colossal statue of Ramesses II, made of crystallized limestone that once stood at the entrance to the temple of Ptah is in Memphis.

Meidum Pyramid

The Meidum Pyramid, one of the earliest pyramids, is located 30 miles south of Memphis. It may have been built for King Huni, the last ruler of the Third Dynasty. No inscriptions have been found giving the name of the builder but there is graffiti. The graffiti was scribbled on the walls by visitors of the XVIII Dynasty, which suggested that the pyramid was at that time considered to be the work of Seneferu, the first ruler of the Fourth Dynasty (2575-2551 BC). One piece of graffiti translates, "On the twelfth day of the fourth month of summer in the forty first year of the reign of Tuthmosis III, the scribe Aakheperkare-senb, son of Amenmesu (the Scribe and Ritualist of the deceased King Tuthmosis I), came to see the beautiful temple of Seneferu. He found it as through heaven were within it and the sun rising in it. Then he said, 'May heaven rain with the fresh myrrh, may it drip with incense upon the roof of the temple of King Seneferu.'" Other graffiti dating as early as the VIth Dynasty mentioned Seneferu but did not state the temple belonged to him. At least two other pyramids at Dahshur were built by Seneferu that can be compared to Meidum. Many egyptologists credit Seneferu with ordering of the face of the pyramid.

In 1882, Sir Gaston Maspero was the first archeologist to enter the pyramid and noted that there was no sarcophagus. Sir Flinders Petrie first excavated Meidum in 1891. Petrie determined how the pyramid was constructed from the outside. To verify his theory his assistant, G.A. Wainwright bored a tunnel through the masonry at the base from the east face almost to the tomb chamber, which enabled Wainwright to study the foundations.

The initial building resembled a mastaba with a square base or a small step pyramid. The first form of the superstructure is a 7 stepped pyramid made of Tura limestone. A considerable enlargement took place soon after and the pyramid was converted to eight steps. Though both the initial construction and enlargements were meant to be final, another transformation took place. The steps were filled in with packed stone and the whole structure was overlaid with a smooth facing of tura limestone. Remarkably, the casing and backing stones did not rest on the underlying rock. They rested on platform of stone blocks that was evened up with a layer of sand. Sand, if dried and compacted properly, makes an effective foundation.

The tura limestone that covered the final structure was later mined for more modern structures. Some blocks recovered bore drawings etched by the quarrymen. These drawings showed buildings with two, three and four steps. It is difficult now to attach much reliance to these sketches but they may be regarded as supporting evidence for the several transformations before reaching the final form. The buildings belonging to this pyramid were arranged according to what had become the standard design for an Old Kingdom complex. These complexes were essentially the pyramid itself and at least one subsidiary pyramid standing on high ground within an enclosure, a mortuary temple, a sloping causeway and a building on the western fringe. Meidum’s valley building was connected with a river by a canal dug to enable the funeral procession of boats and avoid a long overland trek. A wide, mud-plaster pavement, bounded by a stone wall, surrounded the pyramid and the entrance was through the north face. Between the south face and the wall, there was the earliest subsidiary pyramid.

The mortuary temple was built against the east face and was connected entirely of Tura limestone. There are no carvings of any kind decorating the walls of the passages between chambers. There is a low limestone altar intended for daily offerings of food and drink for the dead king. There are two tall monolithic slabs of limestone with rounded tops mounted on low rectangular bases of the same material and one stands on each side of the alter. The absence of particular inscription as well as the undressed stones that formed the lowest course of the temple walls would suggest this building was never finished.

Merimde Beni-Salam

The site found at Merimde Beni-Salam is the earliest know settlement in Lower Egypt. It was occupied during the predynastic period. Found by German archaeologist, Herman Junker in 1928. It was excavated through 1939. Through carbon dating, the site was discovered to have been occupied between 4880 BC and 4250 BC. Unfortunately, most of Junker’s notes were destroyed in World War II. Eiwanger has conducted more recent studies.

The site found 50km northwest of Cairo, was thought by Junker to be about 160,000sq. m. The site is naturally raised above the level of a flood. The mound of Merimde covers 44 acres. The settlement had been constructed on a natural rise above the inundation, and gradually rose as the town was built upon it’s own debris. It is believed that there were about 5000 occupants at one time at this site. Because the site was occupied for a long time, the progression of house styles and street patterns reflect the growing level of urban organization. Large pits found were understood to be granaries. Some scholars believe that Merimde pooled together surplus crops in some form of a community organization. Besides growing grains, residents of Merimde reared cattle, goats, and pigs. They hunted animals such as antelope. The Nile River gave them an ample supply of fish, shellfish, turtle, and hippopotamus. The pottery found at the site was rather plain and simple in shape. Tools were also found. Those made of stone and flint would have been used for butchery, craftwork, and felling trees. Some scholars believe that the pear shaped flint mace heads were used not for the killing of animals, but for the use on other humans, and believed that Merimde may have been at conflict with a neighboring community.

The Merimde funerary culture was quite different than that of other predynastic sites. Instead of interring the dead in large, organized cemeteries, the bodies were buried inside the settlement, mainly in the unoccupied sections of the town. It is impossible to determine if the bodies were buried in the houses while living people were still occupying them. The bodies were buried in shallow oval pits and laid on their sides in a fetal position. The bodies very rarely had grave offerings, apart from the occasional beads, amulets or reed mats.

Maadi

In Lower Egypt, a predynastic site was uncovered in the 1930's by Menghin and Amer. It was named Maadi and had apparently been occupied from 3600 BC to 3000 BC. It is located near the southern suburbs of Cairo, Egypt.

Maadi is a unique predynastic site. It is located on what used to be the Wadi el-Tih, an historical route to the copper mines of the Sinai Peninsula. There is also evidence of foreign house styles and pottery, domesticated donkeys, intricate storage facilities and an advanced copper industry. In 3600 BC, foreign trade goods started to reach Egypt having a great effect on the communities in Lower Egypt. The prosperity of the trade networks later lead to vast settlements in Egypt such as Memphis and the settlement at Cairo.

The Maadi settlement covered about 45 acres of land. Almost all of the houses were oval in shape and constructed with post walls and mud-daub wicker frame. Strangely enough, some of the homes were constructed underground. These homes had entrances through a slanting passage with steps that were faced in stone. The posts for these homes were driven into the ground to support the roof which was made of light-weight material such as woven mats. In the center these homes had sunken hearths.

Unlike many of the grave sites in Egypt, the Maadi culture had very simple burials. These types of burials have distinguished the Lower societies from the Upper societies in Egypt. generally, the grave sites are located south of the settlement about 1 km. In the 1950s, 468 burials were discovered over an acre of land.

The graves were very simple. They were very shallow circular or oval pits. Some of the pits were covered by large limestone blocks. The Maadi culture buried some possessions with their deceased loved ones. Artifacts found in the graves were pots, both red and black ceramics, stone vases made of alabaster, limestone, and basalt. Flake-blade tools, trapezoidal and rhomboidal palettes were also uncovered. Jewelry such as bracelets and combs were found, along with shell containers. They also buried objects of trade in the graves, such as ornamental carnelian traded from the eastern desert, colored stone bead and traces of malachite and manganese which were probably used as pigments. Even though the Maadi were settled on the trade routes for copper, very few graves contained copper in them. The possible explanation for this was that they viewed copper as an essential element of living considering it a waste to bury it with the dead.

The Maadi settlement was a stepping stone that allowed other cultures to flourish. The site was well preserved and a wonderful find in the archaeological world. Unfortunately this site was not widely publicized when it was uncovered and little has been written about it since.

Luxor

Luxor is a temple located in Egypt. It has a north-south axis, whereas most Egyptian temples have an east-west axis reflecting the rising and setting of the sun. There are many different entrances and statues all around the temple. Most of Luxor was built by the pharaoh Amenhotep III who reigned from 1391 - 1353 B.C. Others, such as Ramses II, Alexander the Great, and even some Romans, added to the original until it became what we see today. Somewhat surprisingly, every ruler who added to the temple aligned In 1937, a man named R.A. Schwaller de Lubicz began a fifteen year study on Luxor. He was a mathematician, philosopher, and egyptologist. He took a trained team of surveyors and draftsmen and they measured, analyzed and recorded everything about the Temple, all of the stones, passage ways, columns, and statues. He then wrote a book called Temple of Man. While he was studying the temple, he found a record of Egyptian's understanding of the laws of creation.

John Anthony West once said "Because there is nothing in our society that remotely corresponds to a Temple of Luxor, it is difficult to understand why Egypt should have exercised such infinite pains and genius on what is ultimately a symbolic gesture. It is even more difficult for us to understand the uses to which it was put and the effect it must have had on those exposed to it." Another statement that he made was "the Temple is in the nature of a magic rite, extending over two millenia, designed to evoke in the It is clear that the temple of Luxor has caught more than a few imaginations. In Las Vegas, Nevada there is a hotel replica of Luxor. It is a 30-story Pyramid shaped hotel with reproductions of artifacts from the Luxor and Karnak Temples. There are painted hieroglyphics, the Nile River, and a full size replica of King Tut's tomb within the hotel. It is a fascinating and entertaining hotel. A person can even learn facts about Luxor just by visiting

KV 22: Tomb of Amenhotep III

Located in the West Valley of the Kings, KV 22 was first discovered by Europeans in 1799 when French engineers Jollis and Devilliers explored the tomb. They found that it had already been looted by grave robbers and only a few figurines were left in the tomb. From 1905 to 1914, Theodore Davis excavated the tomb but details of his work have been lost. In 1915, Howard Carter worked in the tomb and in 1989 Waseda University began to clear the tomb again. The tomb itself is laid out very much like the tombs of Amenophis II (KV 35) and Tuthmosis IV (KV 43). From the entrance of the tomb to the back wall is approximately 85 meters. This is a large tomb, as a comparison with Tutankhamun’s tomb shows.

The interior of the tomb was originally covered by paintings. Salt leeching through the walls of the tomb resulted in the paintings crumbling away from the walls. The columns inside the tomb have also started to show evidence of salt damage. In 1990, restoration efforts began in an attempt to salvage the paintings.

Kom Ombo

Kom Ombo is home to an unusual double temple built during the Ptolemaic and Roman periods (300-80 B.C.) ending with Cleopatra, who is mentioned in some of the hieroglyphics. The temple is dedicated to the crocodile-headed god Sobek, god of fertility and creator of the world, and the falcon-headed Haroeris (Horus the Elder), the solar war god. The temple is located on a bend in the east bank of the Nile and about 20 miles north of Aswan. This area was once a home to a large number of crocodiles, which were held to be sacred. The only crocodiles in-sight, now, are mummified and located in the chapel of Hathor within the temple.

The temple was excavated last century with parts lost into the Nile and to an earthquake in 1992. The temple has two of everything, to accommodate the two gods, and among the projections on the walls, in detail, are sets of medical instruments carved into the stone. The crocodile-headed god Sobek wears a crown of double plumes which are located on top of horizontal ram’s horns. A sun disk sits at the center base of the plumes, and uraei (rearing cobras) rest on each side. Also visible in the temple are well-preserved bases of walls that allow you to see how the Egyptians got the stone blocks so close to one another by using water and wooden inserts.

Karnak

Karnak, a village in Upper Egypt, was built in honor of Amon. Recent excavations have pushed back the site date to around 3200 B.C. The ruins of Karnak cover a considerable area, though nothing remains of the houses, palaces or gardens that must have surrounded the temple in ancient times. The most northerly temple is the Temple of Mont, the god of war. Little remains of this temple but its foundation. The southern temple, which has a horseshoe-shaped lake, was devoted to the goddess Mut, wife of Amon. Between these two temples lay the largest of all Egyptian temples, and one of the largest in the world, the great metropolitan temple of Amon. It is not one complete temple, but rather was built by many different pharaohs, over a great amount of time, making the site a record of Egyptian history.

Many of the main roads which lead to the temples of Karnak used to be lined with sphinxes. The sphinxes which line the entrance to the First Pylon of Karnak combine the body of a lion with the head of a ram. The ram was a symbol of the god Amon for whom the temple was built. Each sphinx protects, between its forelegs, a standing statue of the king-- Ramesses II Standing in the shadow of the First Pylon of the Temple of Amon at Karnak (in Luxor, Egypt), one is struck by the length of its east-west axis and the colossal size of its columns. There are no fewer than 10 pylons, separated by courts and halls. And, like all other temples in Egypt, this one symbolizes the mound of the original creation. The ground rises ever so gradually from the entrance toward the sanctuary. The columns are stone replicas of the vegetation which was growing in the the marshy land around the mound of creation.

In the center of this first court are the ruins of the kiosk of Taharqa (690-664 B.C.) Beyond the kiosk before the Second Pylon are two standing statues of Ramesses II (c.1279-1213 B.C.) After the Second Pylon, the The Great Hypostyle Hall of the Karnak Temple was built by Ramses I, but much of it was decorated by Seti I and Ramses II, both of whom are credited with building it although the actual project began earlier. The north-south axis of the hall provides views which reveal not only the immensity but also the practicality of the architecture. The central row of 12 columns on the east-west axis are 69 feet (21meters) in height, about 33 feet (10 meters) in circumference, and have open papyrus capitals. The 122 columns in the side aisles are 43 feet (13 meters) in height, 27.5 feet (8.4 meters) in circumference, and have closed papyrus-bud capitals. The area of the vast hall is 5,800 yards.

The whole of this hall was roofed with stone slabs, and the interior was quite dark. The difference in height between the central and the side aisle columns was used to provide natural light through clerestory windows which have vertical stone slats. Historical reliefs on the outer walls show the victories of Seti I in Palestine and Ramses defeating the Hittites in the Battle of Kadesh.

Within the Great Temple of Amon are included a number of other notable small shrines and temples. A temple to Ptah, on the north side of the site, was built by Hatshetsut and Tutmose III. Ramesses dedicated a temple in the south to Khons, the moon god, and a temple to Opet.

Karnak

Karnak, a village in Upper Egypt, was built in honor of Amon. Recent excavations have pushed back the site date to around 3200 B.C. The ruins of Karnak cover a considerable area, though nothing remains of the houses, palaces or gardens that must have surrounded the temple in ancient times. The most northerly temple is the Temple of Mont, the god of war. Little remains of this temple but its foundation. The southern temple, which has a horseshoe-shaped lake, was devoted to the goddess Mut, wife of Amon. Between these two temples lay the largest of all Egyptian temples, and one of the largest in the world, the great metropolitan temple of Amon. It is not one complete temple, but rather was built by many different pharaohs, over a great amount of time, making the site a record of Egyptian history.

Many of the main roads which lead to the temples of Karnak used to be lined with sphinxes. The sphinxes which line the entrance to the First Pylon of Karnak combine the body of a lion with the head of a ram. The ram was a symbol of the god Amon for whom the temple was built. Each sphinx protects, between its forelegs, a standing statue of the king-- Ramesses II Standing in the shadow of the First Pylon of the Temple of Amon at Karnak (in Luxor, Egypt), one is struck by the length of its east-west axis and the colossal size of its columns. There are no fewer than 10 pylons, separated by courts and halls. And, like all other temples in Egypt, this one symbolizes the mound of the original creation. The ground rises ever so gradually from the entrance toward the sanctuary. The columns are stone replicas of the vegetation which was growing in the the marshy land around the mound of creation.

In the center of this first court are the ruins of the kiosk of Taharqa (690-664 B.C.) Beyond the kiosk before the Second Pylon are two standing statues of Ramesses II (c.1279-1213 B.C.) After the Second Pylon, the The Great Hypostyle Hall of the Karnak Temple was built by Ramses I, but much of it was decorated by Seti I and Ramses II, both of whom are credited with building it although the actual project began earlier. The north-south axis of the hall provides views which reveal not only the immensity but also the practicality of the architecture. The central row of 12 columns on the east-west axis are 69 feet (21meters) in height, about 33 feet (10 meters) in circumference, and have open papyrus capitals. The 122 columns in the side aisles are 43 feet (13 meters) in height, 27.5 feet (8.4 meters) in circumference, and have closed papyrus-bud capitals. The area of the vast hall is 5,800 yards.

The whole of this hall was roofed with stone slabs, and the interior was quite dark. The difference in height between the central and the side aisle columns was used to provide natural light through clerestory windows which have vertical stone slats. Historical reliefs on the outer walls show the victories of Seti I in Palestine and Ramses defeating the Hittites in the Battle of Kadesh.

Within the Great Temple of Amon are included a number of other notable small shrines and temples. A temple to Ptah, on the north side of the site, was built by Hatshetsut and Tutmose III. Ramesses dedicated a temple in the south to Khons, the moon god, and a temple to Opet.

Hierakonpolis

Approximately 3,500 years ago, the Egyptian city of Hierakonpolis flourished between the present cities of Cairo and Aswan. Hierakonpolis, Greek for City of the Hawk, is an archaeological discovery covering over 144 square miles of rich archaeological sites making it a very valuable find.

During Napoleon's expedition to Egypt in 1798, his scholarly associate, Vivant Denon, discovered the edge of an ancient temple. Throughout the next one hundred years, various visitors described other monuments in the area, though little extensive research was completed. It wasn't until the arrival of Quibell and Green in 1897 that proper research would be done on the area. Through their exploration, they discovered a very domesticated Predynastic site. They were not excited about their dull finds however, and nicknamed the area a "Predynastic Cemetery". While researching an area that a temple had been removed from, the two men joyously discovered the earliest large-scale metal statues from antiquity. A large gold and copper statue of the Hawk god, Horus, was found, as well as a life-size statue of King Pepi I, which was opened to unveil a statue of his son encased within. During their further exploration of this town mound, they found heaps of other artifacts such as pottery, figurines, weapons and statues. These finds confirmed the ancient traditions of the ancient site which may have been associated with being a very early unified state.

Along with the City of the Hawk, Green also discovered numerous temples at the southern end of the desert's rich site. After Green left Hierakonpolis, few people bothered with excavating the site which remained intact and untouched under a fog of disregard until 1967. From here, several archaeologists worked on the various sites, uncovering more pottery, figurines and architecture that would help us visualize the past life of the ancient Egyptians.

Another major discovery at Hierakonpolis was the predynastic burial sites. The subjects of the burial sites resembled a form of the beginnings of mummification. Renee Friedman and her team have found bodies whose hands and heads were wrapped with pads and strips of linen. This is significant as it predates the earliest evidence of mummification by over 500 years. However, this early form of mummification seemed restricted on the female members of the society. The specific use of padding and binding did not seem to serve to preserve the remains as later mummies would, but rather to preserve the subject's articulation.

The spoils of Hierakonpolis are vast. The burial mounds, pottery, elaborate masks and other art work, massive gold and bronze statues, weapons, animal remains and architecture have allowed archaeologists to see further into the Egypt's past and to hypothesize the great advances made up until the infamous time of the Pharaoh's. This serves to give us a clue to the evolution of ancient civilization as seen in ancient Egypt.

Helwan

The excavation of the site of Helwan is located southwest of Maasara and north of Ezbit-el-Walda. It is fifteen miles south of Cairo and two miles west of the Nile River. The excavation area lies just outside the Eastern Desert and close to the present town of Al Fayyum. The site dates back to the first and second dynasties. Thus, the site is approximately five thousand years old. The director of these excavations was Zaki Y. Saad. He worked in connection with the Department of Antiquities of the Egyptian government.

The first season of excavations began July 8,1942 and lasted until May 27, 1954. By the end of the last season, a total of 10,258 tombs were excavated. The tombs varied in size and composition. According to Saad, wealthy and revered men had large tombs with numerous chambers and sometimes staircases. Poor men were more often buried in simple graves, but still were accompanied by a variety of objects that would be needed in the afterlife. Many of the tombs for the wealthy were built using mud bricks and/or limestone.

The artifacts found in the tombs were indicative of the industry and technology of the First and Second Dynasty. Flint, one of the most difficult materials to modify, is utilized in several ways ranging from armbands to long knives. Some of these flint knives were up to 50 centimeters in length, an accomplishment of the craftsman from that time period. Ivory was also found in the tombs. It was used for vases, statuettes, utensils and decorative ornaments and jewelry boxes. Another material found was copper, from which they made mirrors, needles, saws, knives and other household objects.

The excavations at Helwan shed light on the lifestyles of ancient Egyptians during the First and Second Dynasties. It showed that the ancient Egyptians had the expertise of constructing tombs of stone before the building of the pyramids. It also showed that they were expert craftsmen of copper, flint, ivory, and several other materials. The excavations at Helwan also improved Egyptologists' understanding of ancient Egyptian technology, dress, customs, religious beliefs, and written tradition.

Giza


Egypt is known for its fascinating history. Everyone is probably familiar with the great pyramids. After all, they are the only "Wonder of the World" that is reasonably intact today. These monumental pyramids exist in a place known as Giza. Giza is located in Lower Egypt (which is actually northern Egypt) near the Nile River. It is next to the present-day capital city of Cairo.

The history of Giza goes back to over 5,000 years ago. During the time in which the pharaohs lived, they built a fascinating funerary="0" included various temples and the three great pyramids. For many centuries, it was not known that the pyramids were the tombs of early Egyptian pharaohs. An example of one of the many theories were that the pyramids were storage places for grain during droughts and famine! Little did they know that these great pyramids were tombs built for three rulers: Menkaure, Khafre, and Khufu. These three rulers were of the 4th dynasty, (approximately 2601-2515 BCE.)

The Great Pyramid of Giza is the oldest and largest pyramid at the site. This pyramid was probably built by the cousin of Khufu, named Hemiunu. The Great Pyramid of Khufu covers 13 acres at its base and is approximately 137 meters (450 feet) in height. It was originally cased with polished limestone, creating a smooth exterior. Over the years, the smooth limestone was looted and used in other parts of the world. The pyramid of Khafre is slightly smaller than Khufu. Some of the original limestone casing is still visible at the top of this pyramid. Menkaure�s pyramid is smaller than the other two. The pyramids were built with huge red granite blocks that weighed about 2 � tons. The workers probably transported these blocks with small logs as rollers or by pouring water on the sand to create a slippery surface over which they could drag the blocks on sled-like structures. How they were raised is still a mystery. It involved mathematical calculations that we still cannot figure out! The entire funerary complex also has symbolic astronomical calculations in how the pyramids are oriented. This reflects the importance for the Ancient Egyptians to keep these three kings "immortal." (Click here for Kufu's funerary boat).

The designers of the pyramids tried to make sure that the king and the tomb "home" were never disturbed. During this time, it was believed the soul of the deceased always lingered. For example, offerings of food and beverage by family members were brought to the deceased. In the Great Pyramid of Khufu, the builders (who were slaves) placed his tomb chamber in the heart of the pyramid. A long, narrow, steeply rising passageway led to this tomb chamber. There were three false passageways, which were probably meant to fool looters or any unwelcome visitors. Unfortunately, despite the builders� precautions, looters had managed to break in to the tomb chamber. In it were extravagant funeral treasures, including works in gold, gems, and stone.

The Giza plateau also includes the Great Sphinx. To the Ancient Egyptians, the sphinx was a lion, which was a guardian to the sacred monuments. The lion had the head of a pharaoh who wore the royal headdress. Today his nose is missing.

All the pyramids can be seen from thirty miles from Giza itself. The site is truly spectacular. The walls are covered in fabulously incised hieroglyphics. From the outside, if you are standing right next to the pyramid, you will not be able to see the top. It is a pity to see that the Great Pyramids are in danger because of its neighbor, the ever-growing metropolitan city of Cairo. The pollution is causing the pyramids and the Great Sphinx to slowly deteriorate.

Today, if you visit Giza, you will find tons of other tourists in the area. You can even take a ride on a horse or camel around the Giza desert. The site of Sakkara is right next to Giza. Sometimes the tour guide will show you both sites. Giza today is known for its infamous "Sound and Light Show", which uses narration, and different colored lights similar to a play. The show depicts the history of the characters.

El-Omari

El-Omari was located in Lower Egypt, and is now currently located in the southern suburbs of Cairo (1). Through the search for the three villages of El-Omari many great outcomes were expected. Unfortunately, El-Omari has not been extensively excavated and only limited site reports have appeared (2). Two Frenchmen by the name of Bovier-Lapierre and Fernand Debano uncovered the evidence of the three villages of El-Omari in the 1920's and 40's. The recent Carbon 14 dating has established that the sites were occupied from 4000 BC and continued to be inhabited until the Archaic Period, Omari C being the later of the three (1). All of these sites where nearby and also in the mouth of the Wadi Hof. Their way of living was quite similar to that of the Merimde. Such as, Omari A covered a large area and yielded remains of over 100 circular and oval huts with sunken floors (1). Again like Merimde, Omari's houses were all well preserved with reed fences. This type of housing reflected the Omari living in smaller nuclear family units, which may have been self-contained.

The Omari had a way of farming similar to that of the Old Kingdom as well. The crops were harvested by threshing and the pure crop was later stored in muddy bins until consumption. The El-Omari also had a mortuary culture that was also similar to that of the Merimde in that the residents buried the dead within the village (1). This was done by placing the dead in round pits, before then they were placed in mats, animal skins, and different kinds of fabric. The way that the El-Omari lay their dead was very diverse from everyone else. The dead were laid out in a contracted position on their left sides with the head to the south and facing west, which was of course toward the traditional Dynastic "Realm of the Dead." (1) Many of the dead were buried with a very simple ornament. This was done to show some sort of authority; for example, one was buried with a clay box and another with a staff in his hand. More research and excavating needs to be done on the villages of El-Omari, so we can get a better understanding of the Old Kingdom in Lower Egypt.

El-Omari

El-Omari was located in Lower Egypt, and is now currently located in the southern suburbs of Cairo (1). Through the search for the three villages of El-Omari many great outcomes were expected. Unfortunately, El-Omari has not been extensively excavated and only limited site reports have appeared (2). Two Frenchmen by the name of Bovier-Lapierre and Fernand Debano uncovered the evidence of the three villages of El-Omari in the 1920's and 40's. The recent Carbon 14 dating has established that the sites were occupied from 4000 BC and continued to be inhabited until the Archaic Period, Omari C being the later of the three (1). All of these sites where nearby and also in the mouth of the Wadi Hof. Their way of living was quite similar to that of the Merimde. Such as, Omari A covered a large area and yielded remains of over 100 circular and oval huts with sunken floors (1). Again like Merimde, Omari's houses were all well preserved with reed fences. This type of housing reflected the Omari living in smaller nuclear family units, which may have been self-contained.

The Omari had a way of farming similar to that of the Old Kingdom as well. The crops were harvested by threshing and the pure crop was later stored in muddy bins until consumption. The El-Omari also had a mortuary culture that was also similar to that of the Merimde in that the residents buried the dead within the village (1). This was done by placing the dead in round pits, before then they were placed in mats, animal skins, and different kinds of fabric. The way that the El-Omari lay their dead was very diverse from everyone else. The dead were laid out in a contracted position on their left sides with the head to the south and facing west, which was of course toward the traditional Dynastic "Realm of the Dead." (1) Many of the dead were buried with a very simple ornament. This was done to show some sort of authority; for example, one was buried with a clay box and another with a staff in his hand. More research and excavating needs to be done on the villages of El-Omari, so we can get a better understanding of the Old Kingdom in Lower Egypt.

El-Amarna Site

El-Amarna formerly known as Akhetaten, is a flat piece of land located beside the Nile River Valley. The area is a plain field separated from the Nile Valley by a strip of palm trees, it stretches 12 kilometers from the north to south. The area on which it stretches is mostly outlined with ruins of temples, palaces and houses that stretch the entire distance.

There are more than twenty-five tombs facing the base of the cliff front that is located there. Six tombs are located at the north side near Darb El-Malik, while nineteen of them are located at the south side. These tombs are built highly complicated to ensure that they are protected from thieves. Most of them start with open court that leads to three chambers, within these chambers there are papyrus columns that meet in the rear end which have a statue of the dead looking toward the entrance.

Among these tombs there are various famous tombs that have been discovered, the first is Ay's tomb, which is considered to be the finest of the tombs there. This tomb was found by Giovanni Battista Belzoni, while walking through the Nile Valley here he found some rocks that were out of place so he poked through them with a stick and found a hole that was deep, he and associates removed the rocks and found a tomb that the Arabs dubbed the tomb of the monkey, because of the rows of paintings of apes that were present. King Ay reigned for only four years between 1339 and 1335 BC and his tomb was only half completed. There are some descriptive scenes of the streets of ancient Akhenaten, a few moments in the palace of Ay are depicted; a woman of the harem having her hair done. In the temple the most complete version of the Hymn to the Sun is decorating the right hand side of the doorway.

There are other tombs here also a couple of the more notable one are Huya, who was the steward of Queen Tiyi, the queenmother and wife of Amenhotep III. Meri-re II who was the superintendant of the palace of Queen Nefertiti. Meri-re I a high rank priest of Aton, and Panhesy the chief servitor of the Aton in Akenhaten. Aton was the god that Akhenaten worshipped and some of these people had shrines to them.

Buhen

Buhen is a fortress that was built in Egypt during the 12th dynasty rule of Sesostris III, around the year 1860 BCE. The fort is located near the head of the Nile River, and lies near the ancient Nubian border. The fort was a part of a chain of forts that lined the Nile. The other forts along the banks were Mirgissa, Shalfak, Uronarti, Askut, Dabenarti, Semna, and Kumma. All the forts had visual contact with one another to warn of would-be attackers.

The fortress itself covered over 150m of the West bank of the Nile. It spanned across 1.3 hectares, and had within its wall a small town laid out in a grid system. At its peak it had a population of around 3500 people. The fortress also included the administration for the whole fortified region of the Second Cataract. Its fortifications included a 3m deep moat, drawbridges, bastions, buttresses, ramparts, battlements, loopholes, and a catapult. The walls of the fort were about 5m thick and stood 10m high. In front of the main walls there was a secondary wall that had the moat in front of it. This meant that attackers would have to cross the moat under archer fire, and then climb both of the walls that surrounded the city.

It is unsure if the fort actually ever saw any battles, but there are burn marks on the front walls. It is not known if these marks are from a battle or an accidental fire in the past. The fort was occupied not just by the Egyptians, but also the Kushites, and the Meroitic peoples without need for major reconstruction. The complex probably served as a customs and naval depot for the Egyptians. It would have been a checkpoint for goods entering from Nubia and southern Africa, and to restrict river traffic from the south. The fortress at Buhen today has been covered by Lake Nasser, which was the result of the building of the Aswan High Dam in 1964. Before the site was covered with water, a team led by Walter B. Emery excavated and published their findings to ensure a record of the site.